WordPress.com is quite useful and easy to use for a beginner blogger anyone like me.
If you want to start your blog , try WordPress.com first. You will know what a blog is and what you want for your blog.
For me I became to know that I needed more flexibility and customization for my blog. That is one reason to move.
I keep this site as an archive, so if you want to see my old posts feel free to visit here.
(I put the link in my new site).
Thank you for following and visiting my blog until now, and if you are still interested in my blog, please visit to my new site and blog.
a second for waterfalls, 5 minutes during daytime , both are calｌed “long exposure photography”.
Is there the “best” longtime exposure for each subjects?
After all it totally depends on you, and what is your desire for your image by doing a longtime exposure.
They say there are no rule for the photography, but there is some theories for longtime-exposure photography.
Let me say some Knack depends on my experience.
Waterfall, Stream： 0.1 sec.-30sec.-１munutes
I love streams. My obsession for long exposure photography just started when I saw a silky waterfall image years ago.
After shooting hundreds images of waterfall and streams, I assumed that at most “1 minutes” is enough for a waterfall shooting, though, I rarely set 1 minutes on the timer. Usually “10 seconds” is so enough for capturing a silky water flow.
I didn’t have a big stopper at that time, I set ND400( 9stops)+ND16(4stops).
However 13stops were not enough under the hot summer day, I had to stop down to F16 for gaining 65 seconds. Usually around 60-seconds is not enough for the silky, creamy sky. On the contrary, sometime the remaining shape of clouds will make the images much unique beyond our expectation..
I composed the tower and the clouds diagonally. Carefully observe the direction of the clouds for better composition.
5 minutes (300seconds)
Since “B&W fineart-style longtime exposure” pioneer Joel Tjintjelaar introduced the idea of “F8 and 5minutes’ “hyper longtime exposure, “5minutes” become the longtime exposure standard especially in cityscape, architecture genre.
In the typical sunny day, achieving “F8, 300 sec.” requires 16stops.
Previously stacking filters are most common usage for 16stops, however since Formatt-Hitech introduced “Firecrest 16”, which was so thin and neutral, hyper long exposure photography became the norm today.
5 minutes are enough for most situations, though some time you have to have over 600 seconds long exposure. I’ve had several cases for around 10 minutes exposure so far.
Especially during the cloudy day with ultra wide angle lense tend to get longer exposures.
Since an ultra wide angle lens captures sky widely, having creamy clouds start to end requires much time.
f9, 1/125 thick slow clouds need longer expousre.
THE LAND OF REDEMPTION
Calculated Chaos Part4: Singularity
Calculated Chaos Part4: Singularity
We can control the weather.
I had 6-times 5 minutes+ a 10minutes longtime exposure at this time.
When I almost gave up, the ideal clouds came up. I often encounter these similar cases.
“Never Give UP” matters.
Tips3: Direction and speed (of the clouds)
To settle the composition, you have to observe carefully the clouds:
・”From and Where” the clouds go?
・Speed : Slow or Fast? If the clouds moving slowly, you need to have longer exposure.
Experiments give you “Experience”
I’ve had so many failures so far, and will have many. Some time I forgot to screw ND filters , after checking the composition without any filters, and exposed 5minutes! Of course the entire image got just a white out!! But there are no failures in the photography, they were all just experiments.
Without experiments you never improve your photography.
I hope my experiences will help your next experiment. See you!
As a cityscape photographer, reflections are very important key elements for me (or everyone?). I always seek them and try to include one for my composition.
A reflection can turn an ordinary subject into an extraordinary one. Also reflections give famous landmarks or unique architectures, which have been captured by many, much unique perspectives. Let’s pay attention to reflections around the subject which can make your photo different from others.
So where can you find reflections?
1.Windows (and glasses)
There are no shortage of windows in the city. There is a building, it has windows. A well polished windows work like mirrors.
[ BLACK MIRROR] Fukoku-seimei building, Osaka, Japan Nikon D800E, AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED 16stops(10stops+6stops) 300seconds exposure. 165mm Firecrest ND for with Lucroit 165mm system for ultra-wide lenses
The windows made abstracted pattern across the street.
[BLACK GLASS] Fukoku-seimei building, Osaka, Japan D7000,AF-S DX NIKKOR 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED Firecrest 16 Filter (77mm), 200 seconds exposure
A well designed architecture, especially having many glasses, has many vantage points. When you are capturing an unique architecture, examine the architecture before settle your tripod.
There is a point where you can shoot a perfect (virtually ) symmetry. To get a better symmetric image, you need to close the windows as much as you can. when you find a nice reflection on the window, you should make one step further for the building.
Twilight Mirror,D600,AF-S NIKKOR 16-35mm f/4G ED VR,No Filter
From the Observation floor, Umeda Sky building , I shot this with the lens actually touching the window.
ATTACK ON HARUCAS
S.O.D. SENSE OF DIMENSION Ⅰ
Tokyo International Forum: actually the original image was upside down.
S.O.D. SENSE OF DIMENSION Ⅲ
A non-reflective surface such as brick can still enhance a composition when a mirrored surface reflects onto it. In this circumstances the texture of the wall can compliment or accentuate reflected light.
The highest newly rival “TOKYO SKY TREE” is much popular these days.
However don’t forget the ever time icon Tokyo Tower.
Capturing a famous icon with a unique way is always challenging, but still you have some room for it. I’d tried with my way, so you should.
We Japanese call it “Tocho” in short.
It’s a massive and gigantic architecture. It looks like a fortress.
However security was not so strict that you can use your tripod or ND filters for long exposures.
Designed by Kenzo Tange.
The building is curved and distorted, not by an natural disaster but was designed so.
Ginza is a very fashionable district, your wife or girlfriend are happy to come with you to “De Beers“. Just take care not to inside the building with them.
Junctions are the last resorts for people who are get tired of shooting popular sites.
Hakozaki is the most popular, chaotic look of junction, and there are many attractive siblings nearby.
I’m sure just try to visiting all the junctions, your time in Tokyo would be gone.
Do you want to know more about Hakozaki? Please check my old post.
Comparing with the original black and white version, how do you feel differently from both images?
The way to change the tone
RGB color curve
The easiest way to modify the tone is using RGB color curve.
If you don’t want to modify the entire of your image, use graduated filter. You’ve already familiar with the graduated filter when you want to darken the sky, haven’t you?
you can also use “Split Toning” when you can add another subtle tone to the highlight (or shadow). Remeber, this modify the whole highlights on your image.If you want to editing more precisely, more tiny space on your image, you’d better to go to Photoshop.
My “NEO OSAKA” was made by this filter techniques with much more precise manner.
The basic image was blue toned B&W image, then I added 4 different colors where I want to add.Especially I gave windows of center buildings color “yellow” in order to give the image subtle warm feeling.
There are various ways to change the tone. Just use them, play with them!
Experiment gains your experience. That’s what I always do.